Inside otherworldly UK seaside village where you can see giant leatherback turtles | UK | Travel
Wales Coast Path – Borth y Gest (Image: walescoastpath.gov.uk)
Just a stone’s throw from the bustling heart of Porthmadog, beyond its vibrant high street and the iconic Ffestiniog and Welsh Highland Railways, past the quaint island of Cei Ballast and the serene Afon Glaslyn river, you’ll find the enchanting seaside hamlet of Borth-y-Gest.
Tucked away at the mouth of the Glaslyn Estuary, Borth-y-Gest boasts a history that predates its neighbouring coastal town of Porthmadog.
In days gone by, Borth-y-Gest was a crucial crossing point over the vast and treacherous Glaslyn Estuary. Locals would make a living guiding travellers across the dangerous sands of Traeth Mawr to Harlech.
While these perilous journeys are no longer required, the village and its attractions continue to lure visitors to this corner of Dwyfor Meirionnydd all year round.
If you’ve yet to visit Borth-y-Gest, the breathtaking views alone are worth the journey. The village front is graced with tidy rows of Victorian houses nestled near a sheltered bay where small boats gently sway on the water.
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The village front is adorned with neat rows of Victorian houses huddled near a sheltered bay where small boats bob gently on the water (Image: Daily Post)
Gazing out across the bay, your eyes are greeted with the expansive view of the Afon Glaslyn, one of the area’s main rivers, stretching all the way to the other side of the estuary where the wooded peninsula of the picturesque Italianate village of Portmeirion resides. At low tide, the area transforms into an entirely different world, reports Wales Online.
The breathtaking views of the Moelwyn mountains and the Rhinogydd of Eryri – some of the UK’s most rugged terrain – are a sight to behold. If you look closely, you might even spot Harlech Castle in the distance.
Built between 1281 and 1289 by Edward I, this Grade I listed medieval castle has withstood numerous attacks from Welsh princes, including an unsuccessful siege by Madog ap Llywelyn and a successful one by Owain Glyndwr.
Not only does it offer stunning views, but it’s also a great place for exploration. The walk, which is family-friendly, can begin at Borth-y-Gest car park near the promenade.
When there is low tide at Borth-y-Gest, the view looks even more spectacular (Image: Abstract Aerial Art/Getty Images)
Your journey can start at Borth y Gest car park and end at Ynys Cyngar, a mile away. If you’re up for a longer walk, you can continue from Ynys Cyngar to the golden Black Rock Sands in Morfa Bychan, making it a two-mile trek.
From the car park, follow the Wales Coast Path signs westwards to pass the village’s terraced houses and enjoy the beautiful views of Afon Glaslyn. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a rare reptile in the area during the summer months.
The critically-endangered leatherback turtle, which can grow up to a couple of metres long and weigh as much as a small car, is a summer visitor to Tremadog Bay. They travel from the tropics to feast on jellyfish.
If you’re not lucky enough to spot these magnificent creatures in the flesh, fear not, an augmented reality (AR) experience panel located on the grassy area of this walk allows you to ‘meet’ the leatherback turtle and delve into the fascinating history of the Porthmadog area, all through the Wales Coast Path app on your mobile device.
On a clear day, you might be able to see Harlech Castle across the seaand castle from the garden and a stylish interior for sale for £235k with Tom Parry & Co, Harlech (Image: Tom Parry & Co, Harlech / rightmove)
The path continues to Ynys Cyngar, a small headland that was once a tidal island. You can return to Borth-y-Gest via the same route or, for the more adventurous, extend your journey to Black Rock Sands.
Black Rock Sands, one of the largest expanses of sand in north Wales, is a ‘site of special scientific interest’. It’s home to numerous rockpools and intriguing caverns ripe for exploration.
And just like at the start of your journey, the end point offers stunning views of the mountains and countryside of Eryri national park.
On your way back to Borth-y-gest, why not stop off at The Sea View? Living up to its name, this restaurant on Sea View terrace offers panoramic sea views.
Morfa Bychan’s beach, Black Rock Sands, has expansive sand dunes (Image: Daily Post)
The beach offers stunning views of the mountains and countryside of Eryri national park ( (Image: Ian Cooper/North Wales Live)
The Sea View consists of two adjacent premises: one offering a full dine-in service and the other takeaway. If you plan to dine-in, booking is recommended.
This snug and inviting eatery is the ideal place for a robust breakfast before a leisurely walk or a fulfilling lunch or dinner afterwards. Morning visitors should not overlook their unique ‘breakfast in bread’ offerings.
For those visiting later in the day, there’s a wide-ranging menu to delve into. And for those with a lighter appetite, their ice cream, cakes and coffees are equally favoured by customers.
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