‘I visited one of the UK’s most incredible historical sites’ | UK | Travel

The UK is home to some absolutely gorgeous sights, but one that’s truly enough to take your breath away is Tintern Abbey. This ruined Gothic style church in the Wye Valley is as eerie as it is beautiful, and it’s steeped in a rich history. 

Wales Online property editor Joanne Ridout recenly paid the abbey a visit, but although she was blown away, she left slightly worried about its future. Hailed by Cadw as a national icon, it has an extensive and intricate past. It was established in 1131 by Cistercian monks, but its initial form was merely a complex of timber buildings. 

Cadw reveals that a humble stone church and cloisters were initially built, but thanks to the patronage of affluent Marcher lords, the white-robed monks began to dream bigger.

In 1269, they embarked on the construction of a new abbey church, a project which didn’t cease until they had crafted one of the masterpieces of British Gothic architecture, including the awe-inspiring seven-lancet window and the towering arches of the nave.

The monks were so indebted to their influential patron Roger Bigod that they continued to distribute alms on his behalf as late as 1535. However, calamity struck when Henry VIII initiated the dissolution of the monasteries in 1536.

This led to the disbandment of all Catholic monasteries, priories, convents, and friaries across England, Wales, and Ireland. Tintern Abbey was dissolved in September of that year, marking the beginning of its descent into ruin.

Joanne said: “Once you get down to the valley floor and stand next to the abbey, even without a roof – as it was stripped of materials once the abbey was closed and empty – it is even more impressive. After a quick, and always inevitable, tea break at the pleasant café next to the abbey we headed to the entrance.

“We had paid £5 for a day parking ticket opposite the abbey which was reimbursed once we had paid for an entry ticket, which is usually adults £9.00; family of two adults and up to three children £28.80, disabled people and a companion are free, children aged 5-17 and students £6.30.”

Joanne was slightly concerned at first, because the welcoming staff informed them there was a discount to get into the site at the moment, as not all of the site was accessible. But the first thing she noticed was just how massive it actually was. 

She wrote: “The Gothic church obviously dominates but there are ruins of many other buildings that, with some imagination, turn this location into the busy little hamlet it once was – barns, stables, infirmary with its own kitchen and cloister, main kitchen and monk’s dining hall, the warming house, the chapter house used to hold daily meetings, the monks’ accommodation, as well as the abbot’s house and his own little private chapel.”

Joanne and her family were the only party there on the cloudy weekday, and walked around the grounds in silence. Reflecting on the atmosphere, she said: “Maybe it was the enchanting ambience that effortlessly wafts through the open doorways and around the stone ruins that had also enveloped us in a cloak of silence, but whatever it was, it added to the overall unique feel of the place – I’m literally having a full body chill as I write this just thinking about it.”

Sitting at the base of a tree in the grounds and surrounded by the site’s robust stone wall, they took time to enjoy the panoramic view of the surrounding valley.

Joanne said: “It felt like this view of the stunning Wye Valley from this holy site hadn’t changed too much from the time of the monks – we were seeing what they had also seen – and they had chosen the location for peace, privacy and feeling immersed in nature very well.”

Inside the main abbey was nothing short of “breath-taking and awe-inspiring”, according to Joanne. This “goosebumps moment” didn’t disappoint, and the atmosphere was unbeaten – especially since Joanne had wanted to visit for years.

In fact, time “seemed to stand still” as they wandered around the site, taking in the surroundings. However, there were display boards up explaining the section of the site which was not accessible and the issues that it is facing just to survive.

Cadw states: “Tintern’s greatest glory, the superb Gothic church, has stood here for over 700 years welcoming worshippers, wealthy patrons and visitors. Unfortunately, the building was never meant to survive without its roof or windows and centuries of weathering has resulted in extensive erosion and decay of the soft sandstone masonry.”

The details continue to explain that whilst crucial preservation work is being developed to halt further deterioration of stonework and ensure visitor safety, there is a requirement to erect extremely tall and substantial scaffolding to access and restore the weathered and crumbling sandstone on the church’s upper walls.

Culprits that have persistently damaged the structure over the centuries following the roof’s disappearance include Wales’ harsh climate and the aggressive growth of ivy – whilst it appears attractive, ivy poses a threat to any building’s fabric, including stone and brick constructions.

However, don’t let this put you off visiting. Joanne said: “But trust me, even with the scaffolding up and areas of the church not open to the public, you can still see the majesty of the building and feel its ancient atmosphere – it’s definitely still worth a visit.”

After rounding off their day with a pub meal at the Anchor Inn, Joanne couldn’t help reflecting on her visit. She said: “The view of the abbey opposite from my seat distracted me somewhat because now that I have visited it I am totally captivated by its unique ambience and wealth of history; I think about it often.

“It will be a constant battle to save one of Wales’ most glorious and atmospheric buildings and I do worry about it, my hope is that with support Cadw can continue to do, in my opinion, the fantastic work that began in August 2024 to keep this Welsh gem alive to mesmerise visitors for centuries to come.”