Hair Growth Warning: Ingredients To Avoid

Just like your face, your scalp needs to be cared for properly. This helps keep not only your scalp healthy but your hair as well.

“Our scalp is the foundation from which hair grows. Taking proper care of your scalp is essential to achieving beautiful, healthy hair,” trichologist Kerry E. Yates told HuffPost.

Scalp health is ultimately dependent on how you treat it, especially when you’re dealing with conditions like dry scalp or dandruff. For example: “If you have a dry scalp, avoid repeatedly using dandruff shampoos. Some ingredients that tackle dandruff contain strong, active ingredients, which can irritate dry scalp sufferers,” Yates said.

There are other practices that may seem OK or even beneficial to the health of your scalp, but may be doing more harm than good. For example, while hot water can feel nice and relaxing, it can strip hair of its natural oils. “So, although it feels soothing on your body, it can exacerbate your drying challenge,” Yates explained.

In addition, there are some products that are touted for use on your scalp to provide relief from conditions such as dandruff, but may contain ingredients that are actually bad for the health of your scalp and trigger scalp conditions or sensitivities.

Ahead, trichologists highlight four ingredients they would never use on their scalp and offer tips for maintaining a healthy scalp.

This is a common replacement for sulfates used in hair products. So even if your shampoo says it’s “sulfate free,” it might contain this.

It’s a synthetic ingredient that is derived from coconut oil as well as dimethylaminopropylamine, a clear, colorless liquid. Although mild, it’s known to contribute to allergic reactions and irritation. “This ingredient can cause contact dermatitis, leading to aggressive scalp itching, which can inflame the scalp and cause follicle damage,” Yates warned.

Sodium chloride, otherwise known as salt, is a cheap filler that Yates says can “actually lead to dehydration” and only make things worse for those with dry scalps. It’s used to make a hair product like shampoo thicker and create a creamy texture, but it can strip your hair and your scalp of their natural oils.

Silicones are used in hair products to create a protective layer on the hair. However, they can clog your hair follicles when used directly on the scalp. “When used as a conditioner, they can weigh down fine, thin hair, making it appear oily and lifeless,” Yates added.

Coal tar is another popular ingredient that is used in some medicated shampoos for scalp psoriasis (think Neutrogena T/Gel). “Though effective, it contains polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons — some of which are classified as carcinogens,” said Sara Hallajian, a certified trichologist and owner of Ame Salon. “Coal tar works, but the risks, especially with prolonged use or UV exposure, are significant.”

While a number of ingredients may harm the health of your hair and scalp, others are beneficial.

• Aloe Vera: Yates calls this ingredient “nature’s healer” because of how healing it is for wound care and its ability to change the composition of collagen. It helps calm the scalp, instantly adds hydration, and can offer support for those who suffer from dermatitis.

• Tea Tree Oil: This is a medicinal oil that is both antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. It also “acts as the perfect supplement to traditional dandruff remedies,” Yates explained.

• Peppermint Oil: Using this natural oil on your scalp can help reduce itchiness and also invigorate the scalp.

• Witch Hazel: As a natural astringent, witch hazel helps to “reduce irritation, support proper follicle health, and help alleviate product buildup and excess serum for proper scalp health,” Yates said.

• Salicylic Acid: This will “gently exfoliate while maintaining moisture balance,” noted Yates.

Since everyone’s scalp is different, there’s not just one path to maintaining its health. Trichologist Angela Onuoha says she always recommends washing your scalp frequently “to make sure that we never create an imbalance of the scalp’s microbiome.”

Just as you do with your face, be consistent with your cleaning ritual to maintain skin that not only looks good but is healthy. You also don’t want to pick at your scalp or aggressively scratch it. This will only “inflame the skin, damaging the hair follicle,” Yates said. “Prolonged scratching in the same area can create permanent scars, ultimately ‘killing’ the follicle.”

For those with dandruff or dry scalp, it’s important to pick a shampoo, and in some cases a scalp serum, to help keep symptoms under control. “With dandruff, I always advise to frequently wash and wash with a shampoo that contains a yeast-fighting ingredient like selenium sulfide, ketoconazole, or zinc pyrithione,” Onuoha said.

In addition to this, she recommends using an exfoliating acid, such as salicylic acid, to “not only fight the overgrowth of the yeast but to also limit the flaking since this is a big concern and annoyance for the people who are dealing with dandruff.”

With dry scalp, she says, a more gentle shampoo formulated with ingredients such as panthenol, oat or aloe vera can help soothe and add hydration. If you’re seeking relief from an itchy and irritated scalp, the culprit may be the shampoo you are using. “All shampoos are not created equal. Stay away from any shampoos that tout super-cleansing benefits. These are not meant to be used daily and can cause an unhealthy scalp environment,” Yates explained. “Use ‘cleansing’ shampoos no more than once a month, if that, and use it sparingly.”

Lastly, you’ll want to massage your scalp daily. “Massaging the scalp a minimum of four minutes daily will relieve tension and tightness while improving blood circulation,” Yates said. You may notice improved scalp health and potentially a decrease in hair loss.