I visited historic English city and what I found in the city centre is not normal | UK | Travel

Cycling through the expansive green spaces of the city centre, with the wind gently rustling my hair, I felt a sense of pure contentment.

However, this tranquillity was soon interrupted by an approaching herd of brown and white cows ambling towards me, without a fence of any kind to shield me from their lumbering hooves. But despite this unusual sight, there was a prevailing sense of calm among the locals, seemingly unfazed by the presence of farm animals in a city park.

Was this normal? Well, normal it was not. But this is Cambridge, a city where age-old traditions blend effortlessly with contemporary charm, sprinkled with a few eccentricities. In fact, centuries ago, it was common for cattle to roam freely in UK cities, as local farmers would graze them in public areas.

The advent of industrialisation saw most of these animals disappear from urban landscapes, but Cambridge’s cows remained steadfast, becoming as iconic as the city’s River Cam punts. Today, dozens of these creatures can be seen grazing on the commons between April and October, coexisting peacefully with both residents and tourists.

Once the initial shock had worn off, my 15-year-old son Freddie and I found the cows to be a delightful addition to our cycling adventure. We had rented bikes from Primo Bikes and found ourselves leisurely pedalling along riverside paths, across verdant parks and past colleges steeped in history.

It appeared we weren’t alone in our choice. Cycling was the preferred mode of transport for many, from students to parents towing child-laden carts.

Away from the bustling main roads, the streets were surprisingly peaceful, with ample bike lanes and paths, and motorists generally showed respect towards cyclists.

Hopping on a bike provided a leisurely way to familiarise ourselves with the area while shaking off any lethargy (bike hire starts at £15, visit primocycles.co.uk) Cambridge is ideal for children due to its abundance of attractions, yet its compact size helps to minimise fatigue and complaints.

Punting proved to be an engaging method to learn about the city’s history. These flat-bottomed boats, propelled by pushing a pole against the riverbed, were originally used for cargo transportation along shallow waters.

However, 114 years ago, former boat builder Maurice ‘Jack’ Scudamore recognised the potential for pleasure boating thus shaping Cambridge’s iconic image.

Scudamore’s still offers punt rentals today, but we opted for a guided tour (starting from £49 for two, visit scudamores.com). During our journey, we drifted past some of the most prestigious colleges while our guide Kathy regaled us with vibrant anecdotes.

For instance, she shared the story of The Night Climbers, a clandestine student society known for their pranks. They once scaled one of King’s College’s four 148ft high spires to place a traffic cone on top, only to repeat the stunt after the headmaster had spent several days (and a significant sum) having it removed.

At Clare College, a statue of alumnus Sir David Attenborough now sports a nose ‘as flat as Voldemort’s’ due to students rubbing it for good luck before exams. Our accommodation was The Fellows House, a Curio Collection by Hilton hotel that was stylish, contemporary and unique yet welcoming and relaxed.

Located peacefully on the outskirts, it was a delightful 15-minute walk from the centre across the picturesque Jesus Green or along the riverside. I was struck by its family-friendly nature, with kitchenettes in most rooms, a laundry room in the basement and a snooker table in the bar.

There was also a gym and pool. Fred and I luxuriated in what felt like a spacious apartment two large rooms with interconnecting doors.

Both had king-sized beds alongside kitchenettes while mine also had a sofa bed ideal for larger families. The meals at the hotel were as impressive as the surroundings.

For dinner, Fred relished a sirloin steak accompanied by a raspberry sour mocktail, while I savoured my salmon with truffle broccoli. Breakfasts were substantial with a vast selection of hot and cold buffet items, plus a pancake making machine and made-to-order omelettes.

The kiwi, spinach, cucumber and lime super smoothies were exceptional. We arrived in the city by train on a Great Northern one-stop service from London which takes less than 50 minutes.

The station is on the opposite side of the city to the hotel, so we took a bus from there.

Just a stone’s throw away from The Fellows House is the Tivoli leisure complex. This former cinema, still boasting its original Art Deco charm, offers four floors of entertainment including games, a restaurant and bar, views over the River Cam and a terrace that would be ideal for basking in the sun.

Unfortunately, our visit didn’t coincide with sunny weather but we made the most of it nonetheless, kicking off with a round of crazy golf enhanced by neon lights and groovy music. We then tried our hand at shuffleboard, a game where the goal is to slide a puck down a board into a scoring zone while attempting to knock your opponent out (golf from £7.50pp, shuffleboard from £15, thetivoli.co.uk).

This was the first time Fred and I had played and we’re now fans. A pizza for him and a salad for me concluded a fun-filled session.

Back in the city centre, we paid a visit to a Cambridge staple Jack’s Gelato, where top-quality ice cream is handmade, sometimes even using produce from Jack’s own allotment.

The queues are justified by fresh flavours such as chilli and salt and roasted banana. (jacksgelato.com) We also embarked on a self-guided walking tour with CityDays.

Riddles and clues centred around various landmarks were sent via WhatsApp, and upon solving them we received additional background information like the fact that the Wren Library houses an original manuscript of Winnie the Pooh. (£15pp, citydays.com).

This proved to be an excellent way to keep a lively teen engaged while subtly imparting some historical knowledge. Once again, Cambridge delivered.

Book the trip

• Coming from Manchester, the TransPennine Express runs trains from Manchester Piccadilly to Cambridge for £68. It takes around 3.5 hours.

• Coming from London, Great Northern and sister firm Thameslink run direct services to Cambridge from London King’s Cross, King’s Lynn, Stevenage, Brighton and various other stations. Return fares from London from £30.50, accompanying children can travel for £2 off peak. greatnorthernrail.com

• Rooms at The Fellows House Cambridge hotel start at £129 a night room-only. hilton.com.

• More info at love-cambridge.com